Universal Genève Polerouter

Universal Genève Polerouter

Even geniuses have to start somewhere.

In the case of this watch, the genius in question was Gerald Genta. When he received the commission from Universal Genève he was only 23, a mere three years out of watchmaking school. The manufacture presented him with a challenge: to create a watch that was anti-magnetic, robust enough to withstand being worn in an airplane cockpit…

… and was also stylish.

In those days, jet travel was still in its infancy. But companies like Scandinavian Airlines were blazing contrails over far-flung portions of the Earth. It was Scandinavian Airlines’ Royal Viking flight, which crossed over the North Pole, that inspired the first watch Gerald Genta would create for Universal Genève: the Polerouter.

The Polerouter first hit stores in 1954, and became a flyaway hit. Its long, twisted lugs and elegant dial ranked it in a class with Omega’s dressier Seamaster models. But as stylish as it was, it featured a workhorse automatic movement that was housed in an anti-magnetic steel case.

Date models like this one particularly resonate with collectors. The trapezoidal date window, a clever touch by Genta, foreshadows the designs that would make the designer famous. With a gold-plated case, it’s not hard to see why Universal Genève considered it their most high-end watch.


SKU: TT01231

Gold-plated case is approximately 36mm.

Overall Condition: Case is in very good condition overall with minor signs of use and wear. Dial is in very good condition with some signs of age. Signed crown.

Includes one 18mm light brown leather strap.

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